Bridal Bodice Neckline - opinions needed!
18 July 2010, 11:23I am very happy to report that my dress for the BurdaStyle book is completely, 100% finished, packed up in an airtight bag and ready to be FedExed this week. HOO-RAY!
I’m afraid that’s all you get to see until next year, though. Boo.
But it means I can now devote ALL of my sewing time to my wedding gown. So the first step is to attack the muslin. I’ve marked my waistline in green, and the possible boning positions in blue. Once I marked my waistline I realised exactly how short the bodice is so I’m elongating it all by an inch so the back and sides aren’t ending exactly at my waist. My waist is an inch higher than the standard measurements anyway so I think this alteration will help (note: I’m not short-waisted. My bust-hip measurement is standard, my waist is just shifted up a tad).
But I really, really need your help choosing the right neckline for this gown!!
Your three choices:
1. Very asymmetrical neckline (bonus points that it covers my scar)
2. Square neckline (I will actually use a T-square in the real deal)
3. slightly asymmetrical neckline (with the curve extending into an additional seam. though this is optional really.)
Please cast your vote in this poll (rather than the comments), though feel free to elaborate in the comments if you wish.
There’s one I slightly prefer, and one James slightly prefers, but we’re definitely open to opinions and comments.
And holy crap, I had no idea my shoulders were so uneven until I looked at these photos!! Wow, that’s an eye opener…
I’m off to attack dear Granny’s gown with the seam ripper until I hear back from you all… eek.
tags: book, dress, muslin, wedding
I was going to comment to point out how the separate shoulder strap doesn’t fit you properly, but you already mention that. I’d like to add that if using option 1, you could still change the angle in which it meets the bodice a little bit, blending it more into the bodice panel (you might even try having it end past the center front line)
— lauriana Jul 18, 12:24 PM #
If I were you, I think I’d go for very asymmetrical but get rid of the other strap altogether. Slightly asymmetrical just looks like a mistake to me.
— Sarah Jul 18, 01:38 PM #
I am going to make a comment here about intentions, though the poll is overwhelmingly for the very asymmetric version, that I use when I design gardens. Slightly off center often looks like an accident and it often appears wrong, without people knowing why. If you want asymmetric make it obviously so. As to the square neckline not hiding your scar, there is certainly good makeup out there that would cover it.
— Nancy k Jul 18, 02:00 PM #
Slightly asymmetric looks too much like an accident, so either go one way or the other. I do agree that I’d like to see the diagonal go past the cf, making it even more asymmetric. I don’t know that I’d eliminate the other strap though.
— Nancy k Jul 18, 02:03 PM #
I think even more asymmetrical, swooping right across to the bottom of the opposite strap would also de-emphasize the asymmetricality of your shoulders. It might also work better if you worked it the other way – ie. the curved strap coming down from your left instead of your right.
— Hatty Jul 18, 02:17 PM #
Normally, I’d agree with everyone that more asymmetrical is better, but in this case I like the slightly asymmetrical better. I don’t think you of all people should do symmetrical :-). But Hatty’s suggestion to have the asymmetry working to balance the shoulders is a good one I think, regardless of what you end up doing otherwise.
Indeed there’s excellent scar-makeup out there, well worth it for one occasion. And I’m sure your friends would not get unduly get bent out of shape over a scar anyway..
— Marie-Christine Jul 18, 03:40 PM #
I am with Hatty on the very asymmetrical. It might be worth playing with the top curve a bit and see if you can extend it slightly so it meets the top of the bodice at the left inner seam just below the left strap, which is I think what she already suggested. You could also try putting a little bit of an arc on the inner side of the left strap, widening it a little so it looks like the top piece connects to the bodice seam, but the left strap connects a little bit behind the top piece, like if you added just the first triangle that appears on the right strap onto the left strap.
Honestly, though, I think they would all look stunning on you.
Good luck!
— Sharon Jul 18, 04:38 PM #
Okay, I have a suggestion that’s a compromise of the 1st and 3rd necklines. Use the curve from 3 on the <i>other</i> side of the bodice and at the same time use the curve of 1 where it is. It’s still slightly assymetrical but there isn’t the stark contrast of a curve and then a 90 degree angle. What do you think?
— lsaspacey Jul 18, 04:42 PM #
What about very asymetrical but with a much narrower strap for the non-curved side, even a spaghetti strap. That would look deliberate and rather stylish, I think
— Anne Frances Jul 18, 07:04 PM #
I’m a new reader to your blog. I found you while researching bra-making techniques. Appreciate all the valuable information you share here. Personally, I prefer the square neckline. I think it looks pretty and echoes your collarbone nicely. Your other readers, though, comment that asymmetrical is more your style. In that case, I would accentuate the line even more and not have it stop right in the middle of your breasts but carry over further. And what about the back? Will it mirror the front?
Your shoulders aren’t really crooked! Your handbag was probably extra heavy that day. Or perhaps your burdens were sitting there on your left and you didn’t realize it.
— Sido Jul 18, 07:33 PM #
I voted for very asymmetrical, but I like Anne Frances’s idea about the spaghetti strap. Push the emphasis between the two sides and it will look even cooler, I think. Everyone’s ideas about tweaking the neckline are great.
All of this is not because it hides your scar – heck, show that thing off, I say! :)
— Laura Jul 18, 11:59 PM #
I believe square looks best overall, however I would consider a rounded square to fit in with your curving design lines better, and perhaps start the L bust curve at the CF rather than the corner.
I agree that design elements should never be ‘half done’ and that slightly assymetric just looks like a mistake, and a spaghetti strap holding up one side always looks like poor engineering to me!
I designed wedding dresses and always look back on the assymetric ones with slight regret – they looked very cool at the time, but now I feel they all look slightly ‘odd’ in photographs – and I love assymetry! But if you do decide on the very assymetric version, I would run the R neckline curve into the L bust curvy line, and slightly round the L neckline corner. I suppose I don’t like curves and squares used together!
I have a heart surgery scar up my CF – I’ve adopted the attitude not to try and conceal it, and once a fashion stylist even told me to show it off and I should be proud of it!
— ~Sherry~ Jul 19, 01:08 AM #
i like both the square and the very asymmetric. if you are going to do the asymmetric then you need to cross over the center line. take the line down to the middle sketch line you have on the bodice and smooth the line to nothing at about center of the left 1/2. it will create a more dramatic feeling and less abrupt.
i also back others in saying that you should never hide your scar on purpose. design for you. not for the scar. the scar should help keep you moment and remind you to have the most beautiful and wonderful time you can.
— charlesbcoburn Jul 19, 02:32 AM #
I agree with Laura, Charles, etc—wear your scar with pride, it’s part of you and fighting a major illness is something to be magnificently proud of for both you and your fiancé. Charles, that was beautifully said: design for you, not for your scar.
— Katharine in Brussels Jul 19, 08:21 AM #
I like square better, but for you, I do prefer way asymmetrical (as opposed to slight). I’d like to see a less harsh 90 on the other strap if you go towards view A. Maybe something that curves, more like a slight U neck? Then again, maybe with all the cool bodice piecing, the squared off strap will make more sense to me. Either way it will be very cool!
— M Kate Jul 19, 05:53 PM #