The Honest 'Tooth
12 December 2009, 08:41Even experienced sewers do dumb things. I hardly ever make muslins except when I’ve got really expensive fabric (like coating) or when I’m working with a pattern company I’ve not used very much before. But for Burdas, I know I’m a size 42, and that size 42 always fits me.
Until now. I’ve just finished sewing BWOF 05/2009 #117 and (yes I know it’s a stupid thing to do) I didn’t try it on until I put the invisible zipper in right at the end because it’s a PITA to get someone else to pin you in and out and frankly, I still hurt from that surgery so I just like to get into my sewing zen zone and proceed without interruptions. That’s my excuse, anyway.
So what’s Burda’s?? Being polite, I could say this pattern runs small. Besides the fact that Burda patterns don’t run anything, they just fit, every time, with German precision, since when is it okay to have zero inches of waist ease in any woven pattern (seriously – measured dress waist is 30 1/2 inches. Size 42 body waist measurement is 30 3/4 inches on the size chart)? Argh. I think I’m most annoyed because I trusted Burda so implicitly, and because I did such an awesome job on those pointed underarm gussets that so intimidated me (they actually turned out to be really easy – just make sure you thread-baste the seam lines, interface the point, and sew each in two steps like Burda suggests).
I even had to dial Susan down to her absolute smallest setting (39-29-40) to get the dress to fit onto her, and even then the zipper is really straining at the back bodice!
In any case, I’m left with a frankly gorgeous Mad Men-esque houndstooth wiggle dress that probably won’t fit me for another six months. So I quick texted my neighbour Kate, who’s a size or two smaller than me and is in credit at the Karma Bank of Melissa for smuggling a pair of boots home from the States in her suitcase for me, and she’s going to come try it on. If it fits, it’s hers – my only stipulation is that she has to wear it, not keep it in the wardrobe for best or anything.
But still, this could all be worse – I chose to make this dress in this houndstooth because it disappointingly started to fade on the first wash, only cost me £5 total, and has the stretch running along the grain instead of across (contrary to expectations), and I wanted to use it as some sort of “wearable muslin” (even though I don’t do those) before I made this dress in AllisonC‘s gorgeous chrysanthemum silk satin. So yeah, things could be much worse! But now I need to find another pattern that’s worthy of her silk – maybe elainemay’s new favourite Burda dress?
(Ok I really can’t let this go, I feel betrayed! The three reviews of this dress on PR don’t mention any sizing issues, and Kristy’s account even says the skirt runs big! I am 100% sure there’s not a tracing or seam allowance issue, as I’ve made millions of BWOF patterns and could do both in my sleep. I’ve gained a bit of weight from my medical crap and not being allowed to run but no so much that my normal clothes or other Burda 42s don’t fit, so I’m really at a loss here. Probably best that my next two projects are gifts, followed by a fleece jacket. Humph.)
tags: bwof, dress
That is terrible! Shame on Burda. You did such a great job with this dress, I love it. I hope you will try again, as well as make elainemay’s favourite dress, I really like that one too.
— Hilde Dec 12, 10:10 AM #
Well that is a bummer especially as the dress looks so nice on the dressform – the waist does look tiny though, I wonder what happened, maybe it’s only the 42 pattern that has a problem. Very frustrating, I hope that your friend will be able to wear it so all your lovely work doesn’t go totally to waste.
— allisonC Dec 12, 11:17 AM #
That’s terrible! Especially because you really wouldn’t expect this from Burda. The dress looks so great on the dummy…
— lauriana Dec 12, 12:24 PM #
Urgh. I too trust Burda implicitly and it bit me in the a$$ two years ago. It looks totally great on the form.
— cidell Dec 12, 05:35 PM #
Bummer! I’m just like you, I rarely make up muslins for Burda. Hope your friend likes it…
— Christina Dec 12, 08:06 PM #
Bummer! Your experience shows that patterns do have errors, even Burda.
— gwen Dec 13, 01:04 AM #
I have to agree with you about Burda. They are pretty consistent. well, I didd make one that ran very small and that I actually didn’t need to narrow the shoulders on, so I guess they are not always perfect. Bad day for the pattern maker? What a shame as it is a lovely dress.
— Nancy K Dec 13, 11:42 AM #
That’s terrible! It’s such a beautiful dress, I really like it and had it on my wish-list, but now I don’t know, I may choose another pattern.I like your floral dress very much, think I’m gonna go for that one.
— Teddie Dec 13, 05:17 PM #
Oh, that’s too bad. The dress looks fabulous and the fabric is to die for. Hope you can give it away into good hands!
— senaSews Dec 14, 07:19 AM #
That’s a gorgeous dress, and it looks great on the dress form. Too bad about the sizing issue.
BTW, thanks for blogging about weight and medical issues. One of my doctors suggested I gain weight each winter to improve survivability. I freaked. I was not going to keep separate wardrobes for fat me and thin me.
But, each time I get an infection, the weight melts off and I am glad for the extra margin of stored energy.
— Grace Dec 14, 08:46 AM #
It’s a gorgeous dress, so frustrating about the size! I hope it fits your neighbor…or maybe not, because then you’ll get the keep it. `-)
— The Slapdash Sewist Dec 14, 03:17 PM #
What a shame! Really, all that effort with those fussy kimono gusset seams only to have it not fit at the waist! Harumph! I also sew a lot of BWOF and like you find the ease mostly consistent and mostly a predicable 1 1/2 inches. I am having to refit a coat at the moment – I’m having to unpick the sleeves and lining and recut for a full bicep alteration and reset the sleeves for a narrow sloping shoulder alteration. More harrumph. For me the definition of envy is someone who is “usually a standard 42” Sigh. If only!
— Mary Nanna Dec 22, 02:13 AM #