The nude sheath dress
10 March 2010, 21:31I like to keep up with fashion, but I definitely pick my trends to follow, leaving the totally unsuitable ones to the wayside (anything involving shorts or capris, I’m looking at you!). But the catwalk looks for SS/10 are just so full of lovely pale nude colours that I just couldn’t resist. I mean, Celine are the source of it all (say UK Vogue, anyway), but you know a trend is here to stay when the high street gets involved, with even Zara hyping up nudes and neutrals for spring!
And need I remind you that neutrals were big at the Oscars, too!
So when I saw some nude, pale pink poly/viscose stretch suiting in one of Totally Fabrics‘ fantastic sales, I knew it was time for climb aboard the hype train and ride this one all the way through to warm weather. I ultimately decided on the Divine Details sheath dress (Vogue 8576) for its great neckline and pleasing geometric seamlines.
I did make up a muslin for this dress but the fit was pretty much perfect straight off the pattern paper so I jumped in and ended up with my very own catwalk look!
Even with my pale skin it just feels perfect for spring!
Here’s some side views:
And the back (there’s honestly not this much wrinkling under normal wear, I was horrified to see how the back shots turned out here!):
I’ve been talking about pairing it with my grey tweed jacket so I couldn’t possibly disappoint you all!
There’s a lot going on in this dress, with all those triangular sections and godets coming together at fun angles, but the crowning glory here is the front neckline:
I found it interesting that there’s no need to interface the points, but you do need to do directional sewing to keep them even, which Vogue doesn’t instruct. Also, I found it much easier to wait until after the lining was in to do all the bodice topstitching rather than do some early on and hope your later stitches match up perfectly (ha! I can avert disaster!).
Here’s a better view of those front section seams:
From my topstitching samples, I knew I wanted to use Gutermann upholstery thread for the nice thick line it produces, but the colours in my stash (gold and silver for jeans) weren’t great so I bought some taupe and it’s perfect! The colour is just slightly different enough from the pale pink to stand out, but not so much as to be garish. I like that the topstitching is a feature when you’re close to the dress, but it blends in when seen from afar.
The sleeves here are just a short cap sleeve which is integrated with the front and back yoke pieces, so there’s no armscye:
Lining up all the section seams around the waistband was fun, but made much much easier by my fabric having a little bit of stretch!
Here’s a view of the back:
This invisible zipper makes me happy (I installed it by machine, with a regular zipper foot, in my usual two-pass method)! It doesn’t matter how many I do, now that I’ve hit upon a winning formula, a well-inserted zipper still gives me the warm fuzzies.
And here’s the back laid open to reveal the lining:
I lined the bodice with a peach-coloured nylon tricot mesh, which preserved the stretch of the suiting while keeping everything tidy inside (there’s no facings for the pattern so you pretty much have to line the top, or draft your own). And the mesh feels really soft against the skin, too!
If you’re keeping track, this is the second of three Planned Partnerships, but I’ve decided I’m not going to carry on with the last one. I’m just not 100% certain of where I want to go with it (use the frilly blouse but with pared down trousers instead? Or keep the A-line skirt and pare down the blouse?) and because the colour palette is really for cold weather so I feel like shelving it until Fall to give myself more time to decide.
But there are BIG things on the horizon that I’m really excited about (and are currently occupying most of my sewing time right now), plus my birthday’s coming up, so it’s hardly like I’m wanting for things to sew!
Wow, there are a lot of seams! You totally nailed them. Looks perfect for spring, especially with the grey tweed jacket.
— Christina Mar 10, 09:48 PM #
That is an impressive dress! I particularly like the neckline.
— Karin Mar 10, 09:55 PM #
I LOVE all the seaming on the skirt. I always thought those points on he neckline would curl up so it’s good to see that’s not the case (for you at least!).
— allisonC Mar 11, 12:18 AM #
I knew that would be super-cool with so many interesting seam lines topstitched! It makes for a very nice texture on such a neutral background – and the fabulous neckline still stands out! I may be paler than you (really!) but even I might consider wearing such a color in this style of garment. The dress looks great on its own or with your tweed jacket – an excellent pairing! Good choice with the nylon mesh; I love using it with wickaway fabrics (I am a bike commuter & yoga fan). Hooray!
— M Kate Mar 11, 12:59 AM #
Gorgeous dress – I just love the nude colour trend (when done right) and you have really nailed it with this one :) Looks great with the grey jacket too!
— Kate S Mar 11, 03:54 AM #
I swear I commented earlier but it disappeared. Anyway, the dress looks fantastic!
— Annie Mar 11, 04:32 AM #
Wow! Your dress turned out great and it’s so neatly done! I’m always a bit afraid of these nude colours. So easy to clash weirdly with skin tones, but it look great. I was wondering about the black lines between the bodice layers though, what are they? Black serging on the lining? I know I’m nit-picking here, and feel free to ignore it ;)
— lauriana Mar 11, 06:36 AM #
This looks great on you, the neckline is fabulous. Glad you enjoyed all the little pointy bits :-). Funny how we feel differently about fashion, I’d swing capris if necessary but nude just makes me look tubercular. Your dress is so perfect, and perfect with the jacket, I really like your planned pairs concept. Can’t wait to see the next!
— Marie-Christine Mar 11, 10:59 AM #
Melissa, this is just gorgeous!
— Sara Mar 11, 01:39 PM #
I bought that pattern but wasn’t sure I’d ever use it because it’s too many pieces! But I see that it may be worth it. Love the dress.
— The Slapdash Sewist Mar 11, 03:38 PM #
A fantastic dress, love all the topstitched seam lines and that striking neckline. I’m not so into the pale nudes – it doesn’t do anything for me, it makes me look colorless and tired. But it looks great on you!
— Teddie Mar 11, 04:29 PM #
Great to see the pictures of ‘the nude dress’.What alot of work with all the seams and topstitching but so worth it. I am with some of the other comments in that I think I would look ill in a nude shade. Not a problem for you though! Hope you have a fabulous occasion to take it out to.
Best wishes
— Kim Hood Mar 11, 05:23 PM #
It’s amazing! The colour looks great on you.
I have this pattern… Must. Get. Sewing. Your version shows the details beautifully.
— Isabelle Mar 12, 08:48 AM #
Fabulous dress with so many great details. Love the neckline, the very modern lines and all the topstitching. And it works pretty well with the gray tweed jacket.
— senaSews Mar 15, 09:38 AM #
This dress is gorgeous. You’re right, the colour looks good. I have really pale skin and would probably have been put off nudes but will reconsider now I’ve seen your dress. I absolutely love how it turned out. Well done!
— Rachel Mar 15, 02:21 PM #