Stripey lycra wrap top
6 November 2009, 08:36I traced out the pattern pieces for this summery surplice knit top from the July 09 issue of KnipMode magazine a few months back, and it’s been hanging on my pattern rack tempting me at every turn. I know it’s silly to be sewing short sleeved, summery tops this late in the season, but that’s what cardigans are for, amiright?
I bought just one metre of this soft lycra jersey from Fabric World on Goldhawk Road for a whopping £3 as I just loved all the different sweeping stripes curving in and over each other. It’s a good fit for a wrap top like this as it creates a bit of an optical illusion, with curves going every which way!
The instructions call for binding the neck edges in bias strips of self fabric, but life’s way too short for that, so I omitted the seam allowance on the top edge and used some white fold over elastic (FOE) instead. I’ve found that this neck treatment works really well for crossover tops as you can stretch the FOE as you apply it and then the neck edge hugs the body when you’re wearing it, preventing gaping. In fact, the neckline looks scandalously low on Susan, but it’s perfectly aceptable on me, though I’d say it’s probably a lot lower than most American women are comfortable with (European women in general are much happier with lower necklines).
Even though I’ve got an overlocker and a coverstitch, I still find the easiest way to apply FOE is to just use the zigzag stitch on my sewing machine, using my left hand to kept the fabric flat (and unstretched!), and using my right to lightly stretch the FOE and keep it sandwiched around the fabric’s edge. It takes a little bit of practice, but once you’ve got the knack, it’s really addictive stuff!
It’s hard to see with the busy print, but there’s some nice gathering where the top layer meets the side seam.
The only thing I don’t like about this top are the small cap sleeves – in hindsight I’d prefer if they were full short sleeves. It’s more attractive on upper arms, IMHO, and you can get a better finish with a full sleeve. Here, the underarm edge must be turned under and coverstitched (or twin needle stitched), which looks slightly odd where the coverstitching meets the sleeve.
And finally, here’s the back view, which is pretty plain.
Now, remember how I said I had one metre of fabric? Well, with some canny layout magic, I was not only able to make this top, but also a pair of pants AND one layer of a balaclava for my 4 year old neighbour!
This is a TNT thong pattern from the January 2008 KnipMode, but when I was cutting out the pieces, I assumed I’d use the same white FOE on the top edge, then use a turn-under picot edged lingerie elastic for the leg edges. Only when I looked through my elastic stash, I realised I only had FOE left, so I just used some dark turquoise FOE on the leg edges instead.
Realise my mistake yet? I forgot to trim off the seam allowances on the leg openings before applying the FOE (which you apply without any seam allowances since it just wraps around the edge)! So my thong is rather a bit too wide in the back. D’oh. I hope it’s not too uncomfortable, as the fabric is just lovely! (Note to self – must buy more picot edged lingerie elastic for impromptu pants sewing!)
Coming up next – that sheer tartan overblouse from last November’s issue of BWOF!
Tags: knipmode, knit, lingerie, top
LOVE the shirt. The panties are cute also.
— Lisa Nov 6, 11:49 AM #
That is an unusual fabric. Nice job!
— gwen Nov 6, 12:18 PM #
I love the pattern and the material. You are sooo creative. I never would have thought of using strips like this. I bet it is very becoming on the real model. It makes me want to finally sew up my wrap striped top I’ve been putting on hold for a few years!
— Mom Nov 6, 01:23 PM #
Fabulous fabric and it looks awesome in that style.
Its really good that we get to see the ‘bonus’ panties – its a shame to hide them they are so nice!
Kim
— Kim Hood Nov 6, 03:41 PM #
That’s interesting about the necklines in Europe and US. I’d never think of that.
And it’s a lovely top in a lovely fabric – I think it looks better than the original!
— Hana - Marmota Nov 6, 08:53 PM #
I have nominated you for a Kreativ blogger award on my blog here :-)
http://creativecraftwork.blogspot.com/2009/11/my-first-blog-award.html
— Lisa Nov 8, 04:35 PM #
I think getting anything done is admirable – you have my permission to do whatever you please whenever the hell you please :-). Glad to see you getting addicted to the extra panties too, isn’t that fun?
— Marie-Christine Nov 8, 08:43 PM #
Cute top. The pattern works so well with this striped fabric!
— senaSews Nov 9, 10:52 AM #
Hey, when you elasticize the neckline do you walk a fine line when doing so? I often get a ripply effect if I put just the slightest tension on my CE when coverhemming. True what you say about American vs European women and necklines, people on PR talk all the time about low necklines that I think are perfectly fine :) Like yours here, even on Susan it looks great, esp when paired with the stay-put neckline so bending over won’t reveal everything. Whoopsy on the thong—I saw that back view and thought, ‘a TNT pattern? My goodness Mel is a stoic!’ LOL
— Katharine in Brussels Nov 11, 07:15 PM #
Fashionista mummy print! It looks wrapped like a mummy but is super cute and stylish :)
— JenL Nov 11, 09:31 PM #
Fabulous application for this fabric!! Such a slimming look as you’ve arranged the pieces on the fabric. This looks like a top that could easily transition the seasons. I agree with Hana—your top should be Burda’s flagship for this pattern.
— katie lynne Nov 15, 01:55 AM #
I have a Sonata and have realy enjoyed sewing with it, but one of the plastic gears which attaches to the knob that selects the stitch has broken. Do you have any idea where I might get parts for this machine. My husband can fix it if he has the part. Thank you.
— Char Deane Dec 11, 06:50 PM #