I love a man in yellow
2 June 2008, 18:18I started work on this shirt so long ago it almost seems amazing that I finished it at all! I was first held up by buying some machine feet for this project back in the beginning of April, and here it is in June and I’m finally showing it to you (though I did finish it over a week ago so it was technically May!).
I’ve made quite a few button-down shirts for my boyfriend James over the years, but after reading through Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing by David Page Coffin I had the epiphany that they were all really badly done and I couldn’t possibly ever go back to my old ways after that. Really, I cannot recommend this book highly enough – even if you never sew menswear, it is essential reading for all shirt and blouse construction.
So instead of using the old Simplicity pattern (OOP 5273), I thought I’d break with tradition and make my first long-sleeved shirt for him using BurdaStyle’s Jakob pattern. According to his measurements, I made a size 52 and it fits him perfectly. He also adds that he’s “a textbook 15 1/2” in dress shirts in case that helps anyone at all.
You’ve already read my troubles with the collar and sleeve placket and my surprisingly easy time sewing the sleeve-body seam and flat-felled seams, but overall, I think this would’ve been a much, much happier first proper shirt experience if I’d used cotton shirting instead of the incredibly soft but incredibly fraying linen/tencel blend we bought from Fabric.com back in August.
The black buttons James bought himself from a haberdashery shop in central London because his office is near to a bunch whereas mine is in a fabric and haberdashery hinterland. I was surprised at his choice of black over a neutral ivory or yellow, but he said he wanted it to be an accent as he’d only wear it with black trousers and an Express shirt of his used contrast black buttons and he loves the look of it.
I’m really very pleased about this sleeve placket – I drafted it according to the Shirtmaking book since the pattern just called for a binding. The cuffs have a fantastic clipped corner that look really sharp, and I borrowed a detail from one of his designer shirts and added a second button on the cuff so he can loosen it if he likes (or wears a big blingin’ watch!)
Here’s a detail of the sleeve-body seam that looked so intimidating in the book. Ignore the strained wrinkles – James was pulling on the sleeve to accentuate it while I took the photo but it ended up looking worse!
In retribution, I made him close the top button so you can see how nicely the collar closes! I often get that little space between the collar points all wrong so I’m very chuffed this turned out so nice and symmetrical, even if he never closes it in reality.
And finally, here’s a shot of the chest and pocket. He’s forbidden to ever put a pen in that pocket, even if it means wearing a pocket protector (oh let the IT jokes begin!).
As good as my word, I also finished up my two linen day dresses for myself, which you’ll see later this week. I’m also sewing up some bunting for the open days on our mooring this weekend (if you’re in London and want to visit, leave a comment and I’ll email you details) – I’m currently 12 metres down, another 24 to go! If you’re someone who just can’t throw away scraps, this is the best use ever…
Tags: burda-style, linen, menswear
The shirt looks fantastic! I bought some of that same fabric a couple of months ago (but in oxford blue) to make a shirt too. But now I think I’ll practice on some cotton first.
What do you think about Coffin’s belief that women’s shirts don’t need front darts? (I could be remembering wrong, but I think that’s what he said in his book. Thanks for reviewing the book, BTW. I borrowed it and think it’s fantastic!)
— Jujubee Jun 2, 07:35 PM #
Well done! Does James know how lucky he is?!
— Lindsay T Jun 2, 08:47 PM #
Yes, yes I do. M has done a fantastic job with all my shirts but this one is every bit as good as shirts I’ve seen costing more than a hundred pounds.
— James Jun 2, 09:10 PM #
What a gorgeous shirt – and oh so well made. What a handsome dude wearing it! It’s quite an undertaking making not only your own clothes, but James’s as well. Next thing, you’ll be making men’s jeans!
— Mom Jun 3, 12:28 AM #
Your shirt turned out wonderfully. You’ve convinced me that I should read David Coffin’s book!
— stacysews Jun 3, 04:05 AM #
Jujubee – You know, I pretty much skipped over the whole draping section since I already had my pattern, but upon reading this I went and got the book to see what he had to say. And, I can kiiiiiinda see his point. He’s not saying no darts ever, but that you shouldn’t have horizontal darts because it looks and drapes better if you rotate those up to the shoulder (or dropped shoulder) and create fullness with pleats or gathers instead. He does give a concession that C or D cups might want some vertical darts near the waist, but seeing as how you’re going to tuck in a shirt like that I’m not really seeing much point. Or maybe that’s just because I’m a B cup and don’t have as many fitting issues…
Anyway, I was skeptical but he does support his statements. He’s not saying no darts in womenswear ever, he’s just saying they’re not very “shirt-like”.
Thanks for pointing that out, though. It’s a really interesting theory I completely skipped over!
— melissa Jun 3, 05:05 PM #
James is lucky to have a shirt custom made for him! The only thing I’ve made for my husband is elastic waist pajama pants. You’ve inspired me!
— christina Jun 4, 05:25 AM #
This turned out wonderful Melissa, I am so impressed! I can’t get past the muslin stage on mine, LOL.
— Leslie Jun 4, 05:35 PM #
I bought the last Burda largely on the strength of the short-sleeved men’s shirt pattern which, when I get the nerve, and possibly only after I get him to marry me ;), I might make for my chap. I’ve seen other bloggers raving about the shirt book, will have to get it some time.
— Anwen Jun 4, 07:59 PM #