Spring coat choices
14 April 2009, 17:26I’ve got lots of turquoise basket weave wool coating that I bought from Fabric.com on a deep discount the same time I bought that gorgeous faux fur, and I’m envisioning it as a great spring coat (believe me when I say it’s the perfect weight for London springtime, okay?). But I’m torn between three different coat patterns, so maybe you all can help me decide?
1. Patrones #261-17 – Pros: It has a hood, and big pockets, and it’s already traced, since it from an issue I borrowed from Zoe ages ago! Cons: I’m not as confident on Patrones’s sizing so a muslin is a must, and it’s not got any pockets (Wtf?) so I’d have to add on some patch pockets.
Edit: I’ve just had a look at the fabric layout now that I’m at home, and this actually has inseam pockets that you can’t see on the tech drawing!
2. BWOF 01/09 #109 – Pros: It’s short and casual and I’ve always wanted a pea coat, and Burda’s drafting is fantastic on me. Cons: No hood and I’m unsure if stuff would fall out of those front pockets.
3. BWOF 04/09 #106 Pros: Longer, and I love the scoop pockets and that join on the front (and Burda’s fit me super well). Cons: I’d have to elongate those 3/4 length sleeves, and again, no hood.
So, please tell me which one you think I should make, and why, in the comments! And additionally, if anyone has any tips for dealing with this super-fraying basketweave fabric, I’m all ears! I’m planning to batch-fuse lightweight interfacing before I begin, but other than that, I’m completely naiive…
In other news: The KnipMode jeanskirt has been done for a few days, but I’ve not felt up to a photoshoot with everything else this long weekend. My KnipMode knit frankendress is progressing nicely, but the coverstitch machine has a steeper learning curve than I was expecting. And I don’t want it to overshadow this post, but my hospital date has been pushed back to early June and it’s really got me down. So hence why I’m up for tackling a bigger project like a new Spring coat while I’m still out in the world for everyone to see it (honestly, don’t comment on this bit, it’s just an FYI)!
UPDATE: Thank you so much for all your votes and advice! I’m going to go with the Patrones duffle coat, so no need to place your votes anymore (unless you really fancy it or something).
Tags: bwof, coat, patrones, wool
I vote for the Patrones one. I like to have a hood just in case. I’m a space cadet so I usually don’t have an umbrella. Pockets are easy to add. I also really like the tabs in the front, I think it sets it apart from RTW more than the middle one, and while I like both BWOF ones, the Patrones one just seems a little more unique in design. I also like the in-between length better. I find that short coats are cute but impractical with longer shirts like the tunics that are so in right now (I’m admittedly no fashion plate). I really love the fabric you’re using, I can’t wait to see it all done! Sorry, no tips on super fraying here.
— Lauren Apr 14, 06:45 PM #
I vote for #2, the Burda but maybe with a hood instead of/in addition the collar?
— LaKaribane Apr 14, 06:45 PM #
I’ve been looking at the bwof 4/09 for myself to do….. so it gets my vote. Also, good luck with the fabric – I have some very similar that I keeping looking at in my fabric pile and wondering what to do to stop the fraying!
— nicky Apr 14, 06:48 PM #
I agree with Lauren(comment 1) and vote for the Patrones coat. I like the style, the length and the hood. Hood means no hat hair. Also, hats and umbrellas are so easy to forget to bring along. And yes, definitely add the pockets.
— Sue Apr 14, 07:07 PM #
I vote for #2. It is quite fitted, which is nice for a young woman like you. :)
— Marija Apr 14, 07:11 PM #
If it were me, I’d choose the Patrones coat – I like it best stylewise, plus it’s already got the hood drafted and I’m lazy like that :) Pockets would be easy to add.
— Christina Apr 14, 07:30 PM #
I like the Patrones ones, too. In fact, if it had pockets, it would be just like something I could wear… which is not the same as what you could wear, but deciding these kinds of things is always subjective anyway.
— Hana - Marmota Apr 14, 07:33 PM #
I believe pinking shears are used to cut fabrics that fray. Good luck with your coat choice — they are all lovely. I think #1 has the best button details, and adding pockets at the seam or on the face of the jacket should be super easy! Of course, I’m not making it — lol.
— deirdre Apr 14, 08:16 PM #
I think that the Patrones is young and fun. But, it needs pockets too. Patch are easy, and probably fit the style the best. Maybe you can work the tab detail in somehow.
I have my doubts about that seaming detail in a thick fabric on the Burda, so while I like this one, I don’t see it in a heavy wool.
— Nancy K Apr 14, 08:28 PM #
How long does spring last there? And the first Patrones would be my choice
— cidell Apr 14, 09:52 PM #
I love that long coat that’s third. I love the pockets and the shape. I think fusing the whole thing with interfacing is the best way to avoid fray.
— dawn Apr 14, 09:57 PM #
My vote is for the Patrones, I love the details and style. Patrones patterns are so hard to come by, and you have the pattern! Plus the more Patrones you make the more confident you’ll be in their sizing next time they have a great pattern. This coat would also look fantastic with your new knip mode jeans (imo).
— Sandra Apr 14, 10:43 PM #
Definitely the Patrones! The third one is just too simple, and the pea coat could use a bit more flare, too, plus I can’t imagine it in this weave. The Patrones is really cute, looks extremely wearable, and will be great in that fabric.
— Genevieve Apr 14, 11:30 PM #
I think the Patrones is the most stylish and a nice “young and trendy” look which you wear well. I like the hood and the waist shaping. Good luck with the fabric and give us your tips when you’re done. Natasha
— Natasha Apr 15, 12:25 AM #
Patrones is more hip. I think you would like it the best.
— gwen Apr 15, 02:48 AM #
I vote for the Patrones coat – it has so much potential! Not to mention that a hood is always a plus!
— stacy Apr 15, 03:38 AM #
I vote Patrones too. This pattern is definitely on my to do list and I have had the main fabric for it longer than the pattern. (I could do a sew-a-long with you if you pick that one!)
— Zoe Apr 15, 07:57 AM #
I Love the Patrones! Is the pattern still available from somewhere? I’d love to have a go at one myself! x
— juliab Apr 15, 08:38 AM #
It seems like the commenters made up their minds! I agree however: for me it would be between the Patrones and the long Burda coat. I think using the pockets on the short coat would make it rather unflattering, since they are exactly at waist level. For the fabric I’d recommend fusing all pieces with a thin woven (or knit, it looks like something in between) fusible interfacing which is especially ment for wool fabrics.
— lauriana Apr 15, 09:32 AM #
The Patrones one! I love it! (I wish I had that issue, I would make it in a heartbeat)
— Mia Apr 15, 09:53 AM #
Hey there – I’ve had some success cutting things out with my overlocker (serger) – mark the pattern line then run it though the machine. If you have an overlocker, of course – and it’s not much good for cutting out fiddly bits. But still a handy trick.
— livebird Apr 15, 11:14 AM #
I’m torn between the Patrones and the Burda 4/09 long coat. That’s because it’s for spring in
London, this year, therefore longer is a good idea ;-). But you can do the hood no matter what you choose – match up the neck lines of the 2 options, see how they differ, transfer that. Better to get the neckline of the unhooded in, rather than alter the hood to fit the other neckline, because the hooded neckline may well be looser/wider than the other. Do you get the point I’m really voting for a hood??As to loose and fraying fabric, it won’t be if you really fuse it all over (although I’d wonder about that, you risk flattening all the nice texture out). But you can definitely do what Sandra Betzina recommends and serge all around as soon as you cut. As long as your serger is well adjusted not to stretch the seams, that works.
— Marie-Christine Apr 15, 11:26 AM #
I know I am out-numbered, but I think this fabric is too loose a weave for the Patrones (and the Patrones is cute). I would go with #3 Burda as a good showcase for the beautiful fabric. Pinking shears will not help this fabric, so I would suggest a Hong Kong or an overlocked finish on the seams.
— patsijean Apr 15, 01:25 PM #
Ann of Georgous Fabrics just finished the BWOF coat #3. Here is the link to her blog with photos and a review.
http://gorgeousthings.blogspot.com/
— patsijean Apr 15, 01:45 PM #
I love the Patrones coat but the Burda at number 3 says ‘spring’ more to me. The Patrones looks a bit more winter casual than the Burda which looks more ‘chic’. Perhaps you could make a button on hood for days you know are going to be colder? (This is the UK after all). And if you are anything like me I would make two for the inevitable day that you lose the first hood!
I agree that overlocking all pieces on cutting would be good. Best of luck – I look forward to seeing the finished garment.
— Kim Hood Apr 15, 01:50 PM #
Patrones, Patrones!! I love the button thingies (use contrasting (Melissa-pocket-)fabric on the back to prevent fraying), and I think the length is perfect for London spring weather. I have a jacket similar to the pea coat (which is cute, too) and find that usually the wind blows up my back…and even in the spring that wind can be quite cold here, as you know.
I don’t know how much zoom you used on your picture of the fabric, so can’t say much about how loose the weave is, but my mother always said: zigzag (serge) all your pattern pieces immediately after cutting. So, listen to mum and serge! You could also iron on a light stabiliser.
Good luck!
— Houkje Apr 15, 02:12 PM #
I’m a fan of #1. Pockets, hood, awesome toggle buttons, what more could a girl ask for?
— Eileen Apr 15, 03:10 PM #
I really love the details of the Patrones, but how will a hood look in a basketweave wool? Will it be too floppy? I don’t wear hoods myself, favoring hats, so I don’t know if my opinion has any merit. Second choice is the 4/09 BWOF. I love that front yoke detail. So vintage!
— The Slapdash Sewist Apr 15, 03:13 PM #
I love love love #1 The patrones coat! I already googled it to find an issue just for that coat!! No Luck :O(
I think you should make #1, but if you or the fabric is not up for the challenge I say #2 and then just redraft the pockets to have a little more depth if possible.
— Peacock Chic Apr 15, 03:36 PM #
I think the Patrones is more you, but I also like the third, longer burda. But again, the Patrones seems to fit your style more.
— Elizabeth Apr 15, 04:29 PM #
I realize I’m in the minority, but I like the long Burda pattern. It is a classic style that could be dressed up or dressed down to match any occasion. I also think the style would be very flattering on you. Definitely lengthen the sleeves, and you are so creative you could always add a hood if it is that important. The fact that Burdas fit you so well is an added plus. Personally, I love the orange color as well, but can’t wait to see your creation.
— Mom Apr 16, 01:30 AM #
Okay, I’m totally partial here but I have beaten myself over repeatedly for not buying that Patrones issue for this particular coat when it was in stores a couple of years ago. And looking at it again, it’s just as brilliant as when I saw it the first time!
— Johanna Lu Apr 16, 07:56 AM #
Hummm… Hard choice. For basketweave fabric I usually interface alll the pieces with thin knit interfacing: it keeps the fabric from fraying and it doesn’t change the drape of the fabric or its weight
— Tany Apr 19, 12:46 PM #